Our friends, Glen and Karen (who happen to be the parents of our very good friend Travis) were in town on business and we decided that, since they came all the way from Australia, that it would be the least we could do to put on a super-aggressive menu. I must say, I was quite pleased with the outcome. Also, we managed to put a dent in our booze; part of our campaign to drink all or most of it prior to moving in a few weeks.
The menu ran the gamut from avant garde to traditional:
Amuse Bouche: Blackberry, Tobacco, Smoke, Bee Balm
This recipe comes from Alinea, a restaurant in Chicago that recently cracked the Top 10 in the world. I am happy to say that we will be going there toward the end of November! In any case, this is my first attempt at cooking anything with tobacco, and it was wonderful. The tobacco creaminess gives way to the acidity of the blackberry and then the hit of salt and mint coolness. Very creative!
TOBACCO CREAM
250 g half-and-half
250 g heavy cream
50 g sugar
5 g cigar, broken apart
2 g kosher salt
5 sheets gelatin
BLACKBERRIES
8 blackberries
reserved warm tobacco cream
ASSEMBLE AND SERVE
10 g Thai long peppercorns
10 g Danish smoked salt
8 bee balm flowers or mint flowers
8 bee balm leaves or mint leaves
TOBACCO CREAM
In a medium saucepan, bring the half and half, cream, sugar, cigar and salt to a simmer. Remove from heat. Cover and let steep for 20 minutes. Meanwhile, immerse gelatin sheets in ice water for 5 minutes, or until pliable. Gather gelatin and squeeze out excess water. After 20 minutes, stir gelatin into warm tobacco cream until dissolved. Strain through chinois. Reserve warm.
BLACKBERRIES
Using sharp paring knife, cut stem side of each berry to make level surface. Place cut side down on paper towel to drain. Line 9x13x2" pan with plastic wrap. Pour 1/8 of tobacco cream into prepared pan. Refrigerate pan, taking care to keep it level, for about 2 hours until cream is set. Place black berries, cut side down, on set tobacco cream, leaving 1 inch between berries on all sides.. Pour in tobacco cream to come halfway up the sides of the berries. Again, refrigerate until the cream sets. Dip round cutter 1/4" wider in diameter than the blackberries in hot water, wipe dry and cut out a berry. Repeat to cut out all berries, dipping cutter in hot water and drying it out before each cut.
ASSEMBLE AND SERVE
Using mortar and pestle, crush peppercorns and salt to a fine powder. Place 1 cream-bordered blackberry in the center of each pick. Put one bee balm flower and 1 bee balm leaf on edge of cream. Sprinkle pinch of smoked salt-peppercorn mixture atop blackberry. Put pick on plate.
Starter: Crab and Tea-Smoked Mackerel Tarts with Duck Egg Mayonnaise
Nice one from Marcus Wareing out of the Great British Menu. This was my first attempt at home smoking anything, and it worked out really well. The smoky flavor was subtle and did not overpower, which was nice.
TART
250 g puff pastry
2 duck eggs
2 tablespoons vinegar
2 teaspoons chives, finely chopped
juice of 1/4 lemon
150 ml mayonnaise
250 g white crabmeat, picked over to remove all shell and cartilage
salt and pepper
TEA-SMOKED MACKEREL
olive oil
1 large mackerel, filleted and with skin, pin bones removed
45 g chamomile tea leaves
30 g demerara sugar
30 g risotto rice
Preheat the oven to 220C.
To make the tea-smoked mackerel, you need a heavy roasting tin, a wire rack large enough to sit over the rim of the tin and an old wooden spoon. You will also need a sheet of foil folded double that is large enough to cover the rack and tuck in under the rim of the tin.
Dip a piece of kitchen paper in olive oil and lightly oil the rack and one side of the foil. Season the fish fillets and place skin-side down on the rack. Drape the foil oiled-side down over the fish, leaving the overhang loose.
Make the smoking mixture by mixing the tea, sugar and rice together in a bowl. Heat the roasting tin on the hob, moving it around to get an even heat. Scatter the smoking mixture over the bottom of the tin and stir it around with the wooden spoon. The sugar will melt and stick the tea to the rice, and then will start to burn. Immediately set the rack with the fish over the tin and remove from the heat. Protecting your hands with oven gloves or a tea towel, tuck the overhanging foil tightly all around the rim of the tin. When the foil is sealed really tight and no smoke is escaping from the sides, turn the heat back on and continue to move the tin around for 30 seconds. Then transfer to the oven to cook for 5 minutes.
Remove the tin from the oven and leave the fish to cool without unwrapping. Turn the oven down to 190C. Line a large, heavy baking tray with baking parchment.
Roll out the pastry on a lightly floured surface to a large, neat rectangle about 3mm thick. Place the pastry on the parchment-lined tray. Cover with another sheet of baking parchment, then set a second heavy baking tray on top to act as a weight. Bake for 8-10 minutes or until the pastry starts to turn a very light brown. Remove from the oven and take off the top tray and paper. Cut out eight discs from the pastry using a 7cm plain cutter. Return the discs to the oven on the parchment-lined tray and bake uncovered for 3-4 minutes or until golden and crisp. Leave to cool on a rack.
Take eight metal rings, about 8cm in diameter and 1cm deep, and tightly cover one end of each ring with cling film like a drum skin. Set the rings on their covered ends on a tray, and put into the fridge to chill.
Break the duck eggs into two separate cups. Bring 1 liter water and the vinegar to a gentle simmer in a large saucepan. Stir the water clockwise, then carefully drop the eggs into the vortex and poach for 6 minutes. Lift out the eggs with a slotted spoon and place in a bowl of iced water. Leave to cool. When the eggs are totally cold, remove from the water and drain on kitchen paper. Chop the eggs coarsely and place in a bowl, then cover and keep in the fridge.
When the mackerel is cool, remove it from the rack and peel away the skin. Check for any small bones with your fingers, then flake the fish into a bowl. Add the chives, lemon juice and one-third of the mayonnaise, then add the crab and lightly fold everything together, taking care not to break up the fish (you want to see nice chunks). Stir in half the chopped eggs, and check for seasoning.
Divide the mixture into eight equal portions and press into the chilled metal rings. Mix the rest of the chopped eggs with just enough of the remaining mayonnaise to bind, then taste and adjust the seasoning if necessary.
To serve, dab a little mayonnaise in the middle of each plate. Place a pastry disc in the top of each metal ring and carefully turn the ring over onto the plate, so the pastry is on the bottom and secured in place by the mayonnaise. Remove the cling film, push the fish mixture down in the ring with a small spoon so that it presses onto the pastry and lift off the ring. Using two teaspoons, make small quenelles of the egg mayonnaise to garnish the tops of the tarts.
Main: Braised Ox 'Tongue in Cheek' with Ginger Carrots
I was not able to get my hands on ox cheeks in time, so I substituted oxtail instead, which did not disappoint. Lots of unctuous flavors here and good harmony between the components. This is from Jason Atherton's cookbook, Maze, and I'm pretty sure this one has been on the menu.
BRAISED OX CHEEKS:
4 ox cheeks
1 large onion, peeled and chopped
2 carrots, peeled and chopped
2 celery sticks, trimmed and chopped
few thyme and rosemary sprigs
1 bay leaf
300 ml port
600 ml red wine
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
2-3 tablespoons olive oil
500 ml veal stock
500 ml chicken stock
6 black peppercorns
POACHED OX TONGUE:
1 ox tongue
1 onion, peeled and sliced
1 carrot, peeled and sliced
1 celery stick, trimmed and sliced
1 liter chicken stock or water
50 g butter
FOR THE HORSERADISH POMMES PUREE
500 g La Ratte potatoes, washed
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
200 g butter
100 ml double cream
50 ml milk
1-2 tablespoon horseradish sauce
FOR THE GINGER CARROTS
1 kg baby carrots, trimmed
1 teaspoon ground ginger
1 teaspoon fine sea salt
100 g butter
FOR THE CAPER RAISIN PUREE
50 g capers, rinsed and drained
50 g raisins
TO SERVE:
horseradish pommes puree
ginger carrots
FOR THE HORSERADISH POMMES PUREE
Add the potatoes to a pan of salted water, bring to the boil and simmer for 20 minutes or until tender when pierced with a skewer. Drain well. Wearing rubber gloves to protect your hands, peel off the skins using a small knife while the potatoes are still hot. Mash the potatoes, using a potato ricer if you have one, then push them through a fine sieve.
Heat the butter, cream and milk in a pan until the butter has melted. Add the potatoes and stir well to mix. To get a silky smooth result, push the puree through a fine sieve once again. Stir in the smoked hickory essence and season to taste with salt and pepper.
FOR THE GINGER CARROTS
Blanch the carrots in a pan of boiling salted water for 2-3 minutes until just tender. Meanwhile, mix the ginger and salt together in a small bowl. Drain the carrots and refresh under cold running water.
Just before serving, melt the butter in a pan. When it is foaming, add the carrots and saute for 1-2 minutes until golden and heated through. Drain off the excess butter, sprinkle with the ginger salt and serve.
FOR THE CAPER RAISIN PUREE
Put the capers and raisins in a small saucepan and pour on just enough water to cover. Bring to a simmer and cook gently for 5-10 minutes until the raisins are soft and plump. Drain the capers and raisins, reserving the liquid. Whiz them in a food processor with half the liquid to a fine puree, stopping the machine to scrape down the sides of the processor once or twice. Add a little more water if the puree is too thick. Warm through slightly before serving.
FOR THE DISH
Trim the ox cheeks of fat and sinew, then put into a large bowl with the vegetables and herbs. Pour over the port and wine. Cover and leave to marinate in the fridge overnight.
The next day, strain off the wine and reserve. Pat the ox cheeks dry with kitchen paper, then season with salt and pepper. Heat 1-2 tbsp olive oil in a saute pan and fry the cheeks for 2 minutes on each side until browned. Remove to a plate and set aside. Add a little more oil to the pan, tip in the vegetables with the herbs and stir over a medium heat for 4-6 minutes until golden brown. Add the reserved wine, stirring to deglaze, and let bubble until reduced to a syrupy glaze. Pour in the stocks, add the peppercorns and return the ox cheeks to the pan. Lay a crumpled piece of greaseproof paper on the surface. Bring to a slow simmer and cook for 3-3 1/2 hours until tender, stirring occasionally. Leave the ox cheeks to cool in the braising liquor.
Meanwhile, poach the ox tongue. Put it into a saucepan with the vegetables and chicken stock. Top up with water to cover and bring to a low simmer. Partially cover the pan and cook for 2-2 1/2 hours until tender. Top up with hot water as necessary to keep the tongue submerged.
Remove the tongue from the poaching liquid and while still hot, cut or peel off the skin and gristle with a small, sharp knife. Leave to cool completely, then cut 6-8 thin slices.
Fry off the tongue slices in butter, browning slightly on both sides. Reheat all components. Remove the oxtail from the pot, strain the liquid, then put back to a clean pan and reduce over high heat down to a sauce consistency. Put the oxtail back in to coat in the sauce and warm up a bit. Plate and serve.
Dessert: Apple and Calvados Trifle
This is a Fergus Henderson recipe from his restaurant St John, which is Vanessa's favorite place to eat. He does a lot of simple food, and his desserts are generally British classics. This one is no exception. Also, if you have never tried Calvados (the apple brandy from Normandy) you are letting one of the best things in life pass you by.
APPLES
3 large Bramley apples, peeled, cored and chopped
3 Cox's apples, peeled, cored and chopped
2 tablespoons soft brown sugar
½ teaspoon cinnamon
6 tablespoons Calvados, at least
SPONGE
4 large eggs
125 g caster (superfine) sugar
125 g flour, sifted
CUSTARD
450 milliliters double cream
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
2 large egg
2 large egg yolk
85 g caster (superfine) sugar
ALMONDS
100 g flaked almonds
30 g icing (confectioners') sugar
1 tablespoon Calvados
CREAM
300 milliliters double cream
30 g icing (confectioners') sugar
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
First prepare the sponge. Whisk the eggs and sugar on high speed with an electric mixer for 3-4 minutes, until tripled in volume. Slowly fold in the sifted flour, then pour into a Swiss roll tin lined with baking parchment. Place in an oven pre heated to 160 °C and bake for about 25 minutes, until golden brown and firm to the touch. Turn out on to a wire rack to cool.
Place the Bramleys and Cox apples in a saucepan with the sugar and cinnamon. Cook over a medium heat until the apples are tender, then set aside to cool.
To make the custard, pour the double cream and vanilla extract into a saucepan and bring to the boil. Meanwhile, mix the eggs, egg yolks and sugar together in a large bowl. Once the cream reaches boiling point, pour it over the egg mixture, whisking constantly to prevent the eggs scrambling. Strain though a fine sieve into a large heatproof bowl, then place the bowl over a pan of simmering water. Whisk occasionally until the custard has thickened. Pour through a fine sieve into a plastic container, leave to cool, then chill.
Mix the almonds, icing sugar and Calvados together in a bowl, then spread them out on a baking tray. Toast in an oven preheated to 180C for 6-8 minutes until golden brown.
For the cream, whisk the double cream, icing sugar and vanilla extract together until soft peaks are formed, then place in fridge.
To assemble the trifle, you will need a large glass bowl. Cut the sponge into slices 2cm thick (nothing worse than not enough booze-soaked sponge) and place it in the bottom of the bowl. The pour on at least 6 tablespoons of Calvados and leave for 30 minutes to soak in. Cover with the apple mixture, then the thick custard, then the cream. Each layer should be roughly the same thickness. Top with the sugared roasted almonds.
