Tuesday 25 May 2010

Lobster in Spicy Tomato Sauce with Linguine (Lobster Fra Diavolo)


THIS was our anniversary dish. There's a fish market right down the street that will sell live lobster for 10 bucks. It seemed like a no-brainer. We had everything else on hand, up to and including some leftover pasta dough, which we made linguine out of. Wonderfully spicy, unctuous and sexy. This was fabulous and a fitting anniversary meal. (Serves 4; it makes extra)

2 live lobsters (about 1 1/2 pounds each)
2 large cloves garlic, lightly crushed
1 small dried peproncino, crumbled, or a pinch of crushed red pepper
⅓ cup olive oil
1 cup dry white wine
1 large can Italian peeled tomatoes, chopped or passed through a food mill
2 tablespoons fresh flat-leaf parsley, chopped
½ teaspoon dried oregano
salt
1 lb. linguine or spaghetti

Place the lobsters upside down on a cutting board. Do not remove the rubber bands that keep the lobster claws shut. To kill the lobsters, protecting your hand with a heavy towel or pot holder, hold each lobster above the tail and plunge the point of a heavy chefs knife into the body where the tail joins the chest, and cut off the tails. Cut the lobsters at the joints into 1-2" chunks. Crack the claws.

In a large heavy saucepan. cook the lobster pieces, garlic and peperoncino in the oil over medium·low heat, stirring often, for 10 minutes. Add the wine and cook for 1 minute. Add the tomatoes, parsley, oregano and salt to taste. Bring to a simmer. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the sauce is thickened, about 30 minutes. Remove the lobster pieces and keep them warm.

Meanwhile, bring at least 4 quarts of water to a boil in a large pot. Add salt to taste and the linguine and stir well. Cook, stirring frequently, until the linguine is at dente, tender yet still firm to the bite. Drain.

Toss the linguine with the sauce. Arrange the linguine in a warm shallow serving bowl and top with the lobster. Serve immediately.

Maple-Cured Smoked Bacon


There are few things in this world as wonderful as pork belly. Many of you have heard me say this before. It's nothing new to you if you know me. Well, I have been wanting to make my own bacon for a long, long time. I finally got a book which is definitive on the subject of making sausages, bacon, terrines, pates and well just about anything cured. It's called Charcuterie by Michael Ruhlman. If you give the slightest damn about bacon and/or the wonder pork products can bring you, you really have no business NOT owning this book.

This took a week to make, and MAN, was it worth the wait. This is so wonderfully sweet, savory and smoky at the same time, I just can't even tell you how happy it makes me to eat it.

Find a supplier that can get pork belly, a wonderfully versatile cut. It should only run you about $3-4 a pound and you'll likely have to buy a 5-pound slab at least. You'll find out where the money went when you taste it. It's actually pretty cheap versus what you get out of it.

THE CURE
50 g kosher salt
12 g pink salt
50 g maple sugar or packed dark brown sugar
60 milliliters maple syrup
BACON
5 pound slab pork belly, skin on
Combine the salt, pink salt, and sugar in a bowl and mix so that the ingredients are evenly distributed. Add the syrup and stir to combine.

Rub the cure mixture over the entire surface of the belly. Place skin side down in a 2-gallon Ziploc bag or a nonreactive container just slightly bigger than the meat. (The pork will release water into the salt mixture, creating a brine; it's important that the meat keep in contact with this liquid throughout the curing process.)

Refrigerate, turning the belly and redistributing the cure every other day, for 7 days, until the meat is firm to the touch.

Remove the belly from the cure, rinse it thoroughly, and pat it dry. Place it on a rack set over a baking sheet tray and dry in the refrigerator, uncovered, for 12 to 24 hours.

Hot-smoke the pork belly to an internal temperature of 150F/65C, about 3 hours. Let cool slightly, and when the belly is cool enough to handle but still warm, cut the skin off by sliding a sharp knife between the fat and the skin, leaving as much fat on the bacon as possible. (Discard the skin or cut it into pieces and save to add to soups, stews or beans, as you would a smoked ham hock.)

Let the bacon cool, then wrap in plastic and refrigerate or freeze it until ready to use.

Caldo Verde with Salt Cod


Today is our wedding anniversary. When we first set out to make the menu for the week, we really didn't set aside anything special for our anniversary. This, we realized, was absolutely ludicrous and, really, an affront to our marriage. So the ho-hum soup (which was good, mind you) that we had originally scheduled for dinner, got bumped up to lunch.

This soup is traditionally made with chourico, a luscious, spicy pork sausage found in a lot of Portuguese cooking. This variation uses salt cod instead, another staple of Portuguese food.

This was a good soup but need a little hit of lemon at the end and/or some kind of herb to wake it up (such as parsley). We'll be trying that next time.

1 lb. salt cod
2 tablespoons olive oil
6 large garlic cloves, finely minced
1 ½ lbs. potatoes, peeled
1 quart non-salty chicken stock
2 cups water
6 ounces kale without thick stems
Portuguese olive oil for drizzling
Soak the salt cod in a bowl of water in the refrigerator for 2 to 3 days. Change the water several times a day.

When ready to make soup, drain and dry off the salt cod. Place the 2 tablespoons of olive oil in a large, heavy saucepan over moderately high heat. Add the garlic and half of the salt cod. Saute until the garlic starts to brown, about 5 minutes. Immediately add the potatoes, chicken stock, and water. Simmer gently for 30 minutes, or until the potatoes are soft.

With a potato masher, mash the potatoes and the cooked salt cod right in the pan. (They will end up in little chunks.) Boil for 5 minutes.

While the potatoes and cod are boiling, shred the kale. Gather some leaves together, roll them up the long way, and then cut the rolls into fine shreds.

Add the kale to the soup, along with the remaining salt cod cut into 1/2-inch pieces. Simmer for 5 minutes, or until the kale is just tender. Taste the soup for seasoning before serving in soup bowls. Drizzle each bowl with a little Portuguese olive oil.

Pork and Green Onion Stir-Fry


Just a real simple stir-fry here (which Vanessa made herself). Good, clean flavors. Not a lot of fuss, but a nice delivery of flavors. We added some ginger and a chile to it just for old times' sake.

1 ½ lbs. boneless pork loin
12 green onions
1 tablespoon cornstarch
1 tablespoon oyster sauce
2 teaspoons sugar
2 teaspoons soy sauce (divided use)
1 tablespoon peanut oil or vegetable oil
2 cloves garlic, minced
1 tablespoon Chinese rice wine or dry sherry wine
¾ cup chicken broth
Salt and freshly ground pepper
4 cups steamed white rice

Cut the pork into thin shreds, about 1/4 inch wide by 2 inches long.

Trim the root ends of the green onions, split lengthwise and cut into 1-inch pieces on the diagonal. Set aside.

Mix together the cornstarch, oyster sauce, sugar, 1 tsp of the soy sauce, and 1 tsp water in a small bowl.

Heat the oil in a wok over medium-high heat. Add the garlic and stir-fry until aromatic, about 30 seconds. Add the pork and stir-fry until it stiffens and is cooked through, about 3 minutes.

Add the remaining 1 tsp soy sauce and the wine and stir-fry for 1 minute. Add the broth and bring to a boil.

Stir the cornstarch mixture co recombine and add to the meat. Bring to a boil, stirring frequently, and add the green onions. Taste and season with salt and pepper. Stir to combine and serve over the rice.

Buckwheat Pizza with Cilantro Pesto, Jack Cheese and Grilled Shrimp


This was our first time ever grilling a pizza. The result was such that I was left wondering why, oh why, did it take me so long to grill a pizza.

The crust was the most crispy result I have ever had. The toppings would not wilt the crust, making it easy to handle and delicious. Great grill smoke flavors really elevated this. I'll be doing this again in the future!

BUCKWHEAT FLATBREAD
1 ¼ cups warm water (105F to 115F)
1 teaspoon dried yeast
1 pinch sugar
1 ¼-1 ¾ cup flour, plus more for rolling
¾ cup buckwheat flour
1 teaspoon salt
2 tablespoons olive oil

CILANTRO PESTO
¾ cup cilantro
¼ cup parsley
2 cloves garlic, coarsely chopped
3 tablespoons pumpkin seeds
½ cup olive oil
¼ cup Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, grated
¼ teaspoon kosher salt
¼ teaspoon black pepper

GRILLED SHRIMP
3 tablespoons olive oil
1 ½ teaspoons kosher salt
1 ½ teaspoons black pepper
16 large shrimp, peeled and deveined
4 ounces Monterey Jack cheese, shredded
cilantro, chopped

DOUGH
In the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, combine the water, yeast and sugar. Mix for 1 minute on low speed, then let sit until the mixture just begins to bubble, about 5 minutes. Attach the dough hook and add 1 1/4 cups of the flour, the buckwheat flour and salt to the yeast mixture. Mix on high speed until the dough forms a mass, 2 to 3 minutes; the dough should be sticky. Add up to 1/2 cup additional flour if necessary for a dough dry enough to roll out.

Divide the dough into quarters, roll into balls and lightly brush with the oil. Place on a floured surface and cover the balls loosely with plastic wrap and a clean cloth. Let rise 2 hours at room temperature, or place on a lightly greased baking sheet or in 4 medium bowls, cover, and let rise in the refrigerator overnight.

PESTO
Combine the cilantro, parsley, garlic and pumpkin seeds in a food processor or blender and process until coarsely chopped. With the motor running, slowly add the oil and process until the mixture is smooth. Add the cheese, salt and pepper and process for a few seconds longer until combined. If the mixture appears too pasty, add a few tablespoons of water to thin it slightly. The pesto can be made up to 1 day in advance, covered, and kept refrigerated.

SHRIMP
Heat your grill to high.

To form the flatbreads, pat each piece of dough out on a lightly-floured surface and sprinkle liberally with flour. Roll each disk into an 8" circle. Prick the dough liberally with a fork to keep it from rising. Brush both sides of the dough with 2 tablespoons of the oil and season with 1 tablespoon of the salt and 1 teaspoon of the pepper.

Grill the flatbreads until they are golden brown on each side, about 2 minutes per side. Remove from the grill and set aside for the moment.

Brush the shrimp with the remaining 1 tablespoon of oil and season with the remaining 1/2 teaspoon of salt and 1/4 teaspoon of pepper. Grill for 1 to 2 minutes per side until slightly charred and just cooked through. Transfer the shrimp to a plate.

Spread 2 tablespoons of the pesto over each flatbread and divide the cheese on top of the pesto. Arrange the shrimp on top of the cheese and place the flatbreads back on the grill. Close the cover of the grill or cover the flatbreads loosely with foil and cook until the cheese has melted and the dough is cooked through, 2 to 3 minutes. Remove from the grill and garnish with fresh cilantro before serving.

Wednesday 19 May 2010

Watermelon Ginger Agua Fresca, Amber Twist

Okay, so it's my first time writing a post. Naturally, it would be a cocktail.
All last week, we looked forward to the weekend since we heard it was supposed to be gorgeous. Well, it wasn't. It was better! Anyhow, I decided to make an agua fresca, and since we're adults, I decided to add a little somethin' somethin'.
  • 10 cups 1-inch pieces peeled watermelon (from about 8-pound watermelon), seeded, divided
  • 3 cups cold water, divided
  • 1/3 cup fresh lime juice
  • 1/4 cup (or more) sugar
  • 1 1/2 tablespoons fresh ginger juice* (from one 3-ounce piece of ginger)

  • 10 cups 1-inch pieces peeled watermelon (from about 8-pound watermelon), seeded, divided
  • 3 cups cold water, divided
  • 1/3 cup fresh lime juice
  • 1/4 cup (or more) sugar
  • 1 1/2 tablespoons fresh ginger juice* (from one 3-ounce piece of ginger)
  • 10 cups 1-inch pieces peeled watermelon (from about 8-pound watermelon), seeded, divided
  • 3 cups cold water, divided
  • 1/3 cup fresh lime juice
  • 1/4 cup (or more) sugar
  • 1 1/2 tablespoons fresh ginger juice* (from one 3-ounce piece of ginger)
  • 10 Cups 1-inch peeled watermelon (from about 8-pound watermelon), seeded, divided
    3 Cups cold water, divided
    1/3 Cup fresh lime juice
    1/4 Cup (or more) sugar
    1 1/2 TBS fresh minced ginger

    Midori to taste
    Vodka, gin, whatever your pleasure

    Place 2 1/2 cups watermelon, minced ginger and 3/4 cup cold water in blender. Puree until smooth. Pass thru sieve into large bowl or container. Repeat process 3 more times (add more ginger if you like) with remaining watermelon and cold water. Pour all sieved liquid into a pitcher, then add lime juice and sugar. Test for sweetness. I added Midori. After chilling for at least three hours, pour over ice. After trying it with gin then vodka, I have to say that gin was they way to go.
  • 10 cups 1-inch pieces peeled watermelon (from about 8-pound watermelon), seeded, divided
  • 3 cups cold water, divided
  • 1/3 cup fresh lime juice
  • 1/4 cup (or more) sugar
  • 1 1/2 tablespoons fresh ginger juice* (from one 3-ounce piece of ginger)
  • 10 cups 1-inch pieces peeled watermelon (from about 8-pound watermelon), seeded, divided
  • 3 cups cold water, divided
  • 1/3 cup fresh lime juice
  • 1/4 cup (or more) sugar
  • 1 1/2 tablespoons fresh ginger juice* (from one 3-ounce piece of ginger)


  • Friday was another crappy weather day. After a nice lunch and brisk walk, we decided it was an excellent day for a cocktail. Truth be told, the weather could have been perfect and we still would have had a cocktail, but the weather called for this particular drink.
    Trying to break away from my affinity for Manhattan's, I asked Kevin what sort of cocktail he'd like (i.e. sweet, smooth, fruity, bitter) and he said smooth. I found this and set about making it. Originally, I doubled it so as to divide amongst the two ofus, but when I poured it into the glasses, I poured too much into one. Kevin just poured the entire contents into one glass and told me to do the same (double the recipe) for the remaining glass. I'm so glad I did, and wouldn't you know, the sun immediately came out, and stayed out for the rest of the weekend.
    5-6 Ice cubes
    1 Measure Cognac
    1/2 Measure Dry Vermouth
    1 TSP Apricot Brandy
    1 TSP Orange liquer (I used Grand Marnier)

    Pour all contents into a mixing glass. Stir with mixing spoon for 8-10 seconds. Strain into chilled martini glass.
    I quadrupled this recipe for the two of us, and thought it was just lovely, but I wouldn't want to have more than one (or two).

    Fettuccine with Puttanesca Sauce


    We recently picked up the KitchenAid attachments to make fresh pasta. Readers of the blog will no doubt be aware of our penchant for fresh pasta. I can tell you this: if you own a KitchenAid mixer AND love fresh pasta, you owe it to yourself to get these attachments. It cut the prep time in half. From starting to make the dough until we had fresh fettuccine coming out the other end (to include a 25 minute dough resting period) was about 35 minutes. Incredibly fast and tasty.

    Due to a mix-up at the grocery store, we were without the services of capers in this dish, which I consider to be a key component to making 'true' puttanesca. Oh well. We did have some spare basil on hand, so we threw that in there.

    There's just something about freshly made pasta that can't be beat. Great texture, light, absorbs sauce well. The recipe (as written) has you putting the sauce over the top at the end. I am never a big fan of this. I like to get the pasta in the sauce while still on the heat to give the noodles a chance to take in some of the flavor. Overall, very pleased with the result here.

    ¾ lbs. dried fettuccine or 1 Ib fresh
    ¼ cup olive oil
    2 anchovy fillets, finely chopped
    4 cloves garlic, finely minced
    ¼ teaspoon red pepper flakes, or to taste
    5 plum tomatoes, peeled, seeded, and chopped
    ¼ cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
    ¼ cup pitted, chopped kalamata olives
    2 tablespoons capers, rinsed and chopped
    Salt and freshly ground black pepper

    Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add the pasta and boil until al dente. Cooking time may vary by brand; follow package directions. If using fresh pasta, boil until tender, 1-2 minutes. Drain immediately.

    Meanwhile, heat the olive oil in a saute pan over medium heat. Add the anchovies, garlic, and red pepper flakes. Saute, stirring frequently, until the anchovies are is lightly browned, 1-2 minutes.

    Add the tomatoes, parsley, olives and capers and simmer until thoroughly heated, 1-2 minutes. Taste and season with salt and black pepper.

    Pour the sauce over the drained pasta and toss to coat evenly. Serve at once.

    Sunday 16 May 2010

    "Steak Tartare" Compressed Watermelon and Hayden Mango "Yolk", Lamb Burgers with Tomato-Mint Salsa and Feta Cheese


    We recently dropped a few pennies on a commercial-grade vacuum sealer, which has really paid off nicely in terms of safe food storage, but I had really been waiting for the time that I could use it in cooking applications. Namely, very good friends of ours managed to get us a signed copy of Thomas Keller's cookbook Under Pressure, which deals exclusively with sous vide (vacuum) cooking. This was our first chance to actually do one of the recipes.

    The compression of the watermelon changed the textures and also turned it an extremely vibrant red. Nice mix of salty and fruity. I would have liked the mango to have been a bit sweeter, but oh well. Cool visual take on it looking like steak tartare with an egg yolk on top. The mango 'yolk' was done using and algin bath and gluconate/xanthan gum mixture in the mango to achieve the spheres.

    The burgers were nice and simple. I added some smoked paprika to it to make it sing a little louder. Good contrast of cool salsa to hot burger.

    "Steak Tartare" Compressed Watermelon and Hayden Mango "Yolk"


    WATERMELON
    ¼ ripe seedless watermelon, rind removed
    kosher salt
    extra-virgin olive oil

    MANGO "YOLK"
    125 g mango juice
    0.8 g Kelogel F
    0.2 g sodium hydroxymetaphosphate
    30 g calcium gluconate
    0.4 g ascorbic acid
    75 g sugar

    FINISH
    ½ lime
    freshly ground black pepper

    WATERMELON:
    Place the piece of watermelon in a bag and vacuum pack at the highest setting. Refrigerate for at least 3 hours.

    To complete: Cut the watermelon in a fine dice and then finely mince to resemble tartare. Drain in a chonois with a pinch of salt and a drizzle of olive oil.

    MANGO "YOLK"
    Put the mango juice in a Vita-Prep. Place the Kelogel F, and sodium hyroxymetaphosphate on a saucer. Hold it above a Vita-Prep and, with the machine running, and with the machine running on low speed, slowly tap in the powders in steady small amounts until they are all incorporated. Turn to high speed for 2 to 3 seconds, then strain the mixture through a chinois or fine-mesh conical strainer.

    To complete: Pour 500g of cold water into a deep bowl. Whisk in the calcium gluconate, ascorbic acid and sugar to dissolve. Put another deep bowl of cld water next to it. Drop a teaspoonful of the mango mixture (keeping it as close to a ball as possible) into the calcium gluconate mixture and let sit for 1 minute. Remove with a slotted spoon and place into the bowl of cold water. Repeat with the remaining mango mixture. Use the best yolks.

    AT SERVICE: Spread one-quarter of the watermelon in a ring mold on each plate. Lift off the mold and top with a mango "yolk". Finish with a squeeze of lime juice and a grind of black pepper.

    Lamb Burgers with Tomato-Mint Salsa and Feta Cheese

    TOMATO-MINT SALSA
    2 ripe beefsteak tomatoes, finely chopped
    1 small red onion, finely chopped
    1 jalapeno, finely chopped
    juice of 1 lime
    1 teaspoon honey
    2 tablespoons mint leaves, finely chopped
    ¼ teaspoon kosher salt
    ¼ teaspoon black pepper

    LAMB BURGERS
    1 ½ pounds ground lamb
    1 tablespoon cumin
    ½ teaspoon kosher salt
    1 teaspoon black pepper
    2 tablespoons canola oil
    8 ounces feta cheese, crumbled

    SALSA
    Combine all of the ingredients in a bowl and let sit at room temperature for at least 30 minutes and up to 1 hour before serving. The salsa can be made 1 day in advance, covered, and kept refrigerated. Bring to room temperature before serving.

    BURGERS
    Heat grill to high.

    Mix together the lamb, cumin, salt and pepper in a bowl. Shape the mixture with your hands into 4 round patties about 1 1/2" thick. Brush the burgers on both sides with the oil. Grill the burgers for 2-3 minutes per side until slightly charred and cooked to medium. Divide the cheese among the burgers, close the lid of the grill and cook an additional minute to slightly melt the cheese.

    Top each burger with a large spoonful of the tomato-mint salsa before serving.

    Saturday 15 May 2010

    Plank-Cooked Salmon with Indonesian Five-Spice BBQ Sauce and Thai-Style Asparagus


    Plank cooking fish has been something on my list of techniques to try for some time now, but, due to the fact that I have no grill and no planks, I was hindered.

    Now I have a grill and cedar planks so away I went. Can't say enough about the BBQ sauce. Nice sweetness and heat balance. Perfect for the salmon. The asparagus was a nice sour/spicy contrast to the fish. This dish was so simple yet delivered a big flavor payoff.

    INDONESIAN FIVE-SPICE BARBECUE SAUCE
    3 garlic cloves
    1-inch chunk of peeled fresh ginger, coarsely chopped
    ½ teaspoon sambal oelek (Indonesian chili paste), or 1 small fresh serrano or jalapeno chili, stemmed and seeded
    ½ cup packed brown sugar
    2 teaspoons Chinese five-spice powder
    2 tablespoons tamarind concentrate or paste
    1 tablespoon tomato paste
    ½ cup soy sauce (preferably Tamari)
    2 tablespoons fresh lime juice
    2 tablespoons peanut or canola oil

    Place the garlic and ginger in a blender or the workbowl of a food processor and process to finely chop. Add the chili paste and process again to chop. Add the brown sugar, five-spice powder, tamarind concentrate, tomato paste, soy sauce, lime juice, and oil and process until smooth. The sauce will keep in the refrigerator, covered, up to 1 week.

    PLANK-COOKED SALMON
    1 ½ lbs. center-cut salmon fillet, 1 inch thick
    extra-virgin olive oil
    kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
    1 recipe INDONESIAN FIVE-SPICE BARBECUE SAUCE (see above)
    Special equipment: cedar cooking plank

    Soak the cedar plank in cold water to cover for 30 minutes. Preheat a gas grill to medium-high.

    Brush the skin side of the salmon lightly with the olive oil. Put the fillet, skin side down, on the soaked cooking plank and season the flesh side with salt and pepper. Brush the barbecue sauce on the salmon generously to coat. Place the plank on the grill and, as soon as it begins to smolder, reduce the grill's heat to medium and close the cover. Cook the salmon, covered, until medium rare, about 10 minutes for a 1-inch fillet.

    THAI ASPARAGUS
    350 g asparagus stalks
    2 tablespoons vegetable oil
    1 clove garlic, crushed
    1 tablespoon sesame seeds, toasted
    ½" piece fresh galangal, finely shredded
    1 red chile, seeded and finely chopped
    1 tablespoon Thai fish sauce
    1 tablespoon light soy sauce
    3 tablespoons water
    1 teaspoon palm sugar or light muscovado (brown) sugar

    Snap the asparagus stalks. They will break naturally at the junction between the woody base and the more tender portion of the stalk. Discard the woody parts of the stems.

    Heat the oil in a wok and stir-fry the garlic, sesame seeds and galangal for 3-4 seconds, until the garlic is just beginning to turn golden.

    Add the asparagus stalks and chile, toss to mix, then add the fish sauce, soy sauce, water and sugar. Using two spoons, toss over the heat for a further 2 minutes, or until the asparagus just begins to soften and the liquid is reduced by half.

    Carefully transfer to a warmed platter and serve immediately.

    Wednesday 12 May 2010

    Jerk-Rubbed Catfish and Spicy Cilantro Slaw


    With the exception of a little chemical warfare conducted on our cat (the jerk spice, while cooking, got into our throats a bit) this was a nice dish. I used a Bobby Flay jerk spice rub recipe, which was a little more complex than other ones I looked at. I added a touch of honey to the slaw and it made a nice sweet, cold contrast to the hot and spicy fish.

    SLAW
    1.5 cups cabbage, shredded
    1.5 cups carrot, shredded
    2 tablespoons fresh cilantro, chopped
    3 tablespoons canola mayonnaise
    2 tablespoons fresh lime juice
    1 ½ teaspoons sugar
    1-1.5 teaspoon habanero or serrano pepper, finely chopped
    1 tablespoon honey
    salt to taste

    CATFISH
    cooking spray
    4x6 ounce catfish fillets
    4 teaspoons Jamaican jerk spice rub (see below)

    Combine first 6 ingredients in a medium bowl; toss well to coat.

    Heat a grill pan over medium-high heat. Coat pan with cooking spray. Sprinkle fish evenly with jerk seasoning. Add fish to pan; cook 3 minutes on each side or until desired degree of doneness. Remove from heat; serve fish with slaw.

    Jamaican Jerk Rub
    2 tablespoons light brown soft sugar
    1 tablespoon coriander
    1 tablespoon ground ginger
    1 tablespoon habanero chile powder
    1 teaspoon onion powder
    1 teaspoon garlic powder
    1 teaspoon dried thyme
    1 teaspoon kosher salt
    2 teaspoons black pepper
    1 teaspoon cinnamon
    1 teaspoon ground allspice
    1 teaspoon ground cloves

    Pulverize all of the spices in a spice grinder.

    Tuesday 4 May 2010

    Beef Vindaloo


    We had some leftover Wagyu beef from a previous meal (Braised Short Rib in Barolo), and thought we might give it a try in a curry. When we lived in the UK, you couldn't throw a rock in any direction and NOT hit 6 Indian restaurants. And now that I think about it, we have really not had Indian food in some time.

    Vindaloo (as I have had it) is usually crazily-spiced. Not a lot of elegance to it, but that wasn't what I was eating it for. Eating it made me sweat, and probably linked to some kind of endorphin release and/or link to the brain's pain/pleasure centers. I ALWAYS suffered some 'next-day effects' which sometimes couldn't wait past 3AM. But I digress...

    So we cracked the 'Best-Ever Curry Cookbook' which, as I have said before, I was wary of buying as cookbooks that proclaim themselves to be the 'best' of anything immediately sends red flags up. Anyhow this, like everything else I have cooked from this cookbook, actually is (or is very close to) the best ever. Using meltingly delicious Wagyu beef certainly didn't hurt it. The spice was subtle and overall, the dish was quite aromatic. One of those you just want to keep eating. So I did.

    1 tablespoon cumin seeds
    4 dried red chiles
    1 teaspoon black peppercorns
    5 green cardamom pods, seeds only
    1 teaspoon fenugreek seeds
    1 teaspoon black mustard seeds
    ½ teaspoon salt
    ½ teaspoon demerara (raw) sugar
    4 tablespoons white wine vinegar
    4 tablespoons vegetable oil
    1 large onion, finely chopped
    900 g stewing beef, cut into 1-in cubes
    1" piece ginger, shredded
    1 clove garlic, crushed
    2 teaspoons ground coriander
    ½ teaspoon ground turmeric
    plain and yellow rice, to serve

    Use a pestle and mortar to grind the cumin seeds, chiles, peppercorns, cardamom seeds, fenugreek seeds and mustard seeds to a fine powder. Add the salt, sugar and white wine vinegar and mix to a thin paste.

    Heat 2 tbsp of the oil and fry the onion over a medium heat for 8-10 minutes. Put the onion and the spice mixture into a food processor or blender and process to a coarse paste.

    Heat the remaining oil in the pan and fry the meat cubes over a medium heat for 10 minutes or until lightly browned. Remove the beef cubes with a slotted spoon and set aside.

    Add the shredded ginger and crushed garlic to the pan and fry for 2 minutes. Stir in the coriander and turmeric and fry for 2 minutes more.

    Add the spice and onion paste and fry for about 5 minutes.

    Return the meat to the pan, together with 1 1/4 cups water. Cover and simmer for 1-1 1/2 hours or until the meal is tender. Serve with plain and yellow rice, and a raita, if you like.

    Italian Sausages with Lentils


    Sometimes, something really simple comes along a makes you take a step back and evaluate food that is complicated. Now, while I am not ready to abandon 'difficult' preparations altogether, I can really appreciate when something that is both ridiculously easy and delicious comes along. This is one of those dishes.

    I will say this, a superior Italian sausage is ESSENTIAL to the success of this dish. We had mail- ordered some (as a part of a larger order) a few weeks back, and they were just sitting in the freezer waiting to be eaten up. We had no idea what kind of goldmine we were sitting on until we ate them.

    Lovely, sweet spiciness. Enriching wholesomeness. The was comfort food through and through without being overly heavy. I am seriously looking forward to the leftovers! I honetsly can't say enough good things about this dish. You owe it to yourself to try it.

    olive oil
    200 g smoked bacon lardons
    1 onion, peeled and finely chopped
    1 medium carrot, peeled and cut into 1cm cubes
    3 bay leaf
    500 g Puy or Castelluccio lentils, rinsed and drained
    sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
    1 large clove garlic, peeled and smashed
    12 Italian sausages
    100 milliliters dry white wine
    handful parsley, leaves chopped

    Heat a little olive oil in a heavy-based saucepan and fry the lardons until lightly golden, about 5 minutes. Add the onion, carrot and bay leaves, stir well and cook over a medium heat for 5-6 minutes until the onions begin to soften.

    Tip in the lentils, stir well and pour in enough water to cover. Bring to the boil, lower the heat and simmer, covered, for 25-30 minutes until most of the liquid has been absorbed and the lentils are tender. Season generously with salt and pepper.

    Cook the sausages in the meantime. Heat a little olive oil in a heavy-based frying pan. Add the garlic and cook for a minute. Add the sausages and pan-fry for about 5 minutes, turning occasionally, until lightly golden. Deglaze the pan with the white wine and bring to the boil. Lower the heat to a simmer, and leave the sausages to braise for 15-20 minutes until cooked through.

    With a pair of tongs, transfer the sausages to the lentils, nestling them among the vegetables and lentils and adding the pan juices. Reheat for a few more minutes.

    Divide the lentils and sausages among warm shallow bowls. Sprinkle generously with chopped parsley and a grinding of black pepper, then serve.

    Sunday 2 May 2010

    Rabbit Pate


    Our friends Corey and Franca gave us a rabbit the other day as they had managed to find a place that had them. They are dedicated food people, good friends, and really had our back on this one. We paged through our recipes for rabbit. Dedicated readers of the blog will know that I have had a few unsuccessful go arounds with rabbit, so I wanted to try something that had a better chance of succeeding.

    We turned to the Bouchon cookbook, which is out of control. We've never made anything out of it that wasn't absolutely spectacular. We were kind of feeling it for something like a pate and luckily there was one in there.

    Well, it didn't disappoint. That's an understatement. It was amazing and rich. Great with the little cornichons, salt and Dijon mustard. Just perfect! You need a full 24 hours for this one though. Be warned!

    SPICE MIXTURE
    2 tablespoons salt, plus 1 teaspoon
    ¼ teaspoon pink salt
    1 tablespoon thyme, plus on teaspoon, minced
    1 tablespoon nutmeg, plus 1 teaspoon, grated
    2 teaspoons black peppercorns
    3 bay leaf

    PATE
    13 ounces rabbit meat
    1 ¼ pounds chicken livers
    9 ounces white bread
    1 ¼ cups milk
    canola oil
    5 bay leaf
    1 ¼ pounds thinly sliced slab bacon
    9 ounces fresh, unsalted pork fatback, cut into 1-inch cubes
    2 large egg yolks
    2 tablespoons cognac, or other brandy

    ACCOMPANIMENTS
    Dijon mustard
    Cornichons
    Radishes
    Fleur de sel and black pepper

    FOR THE SPICE MIXTURE: Grind the salts, thyme, nutmeg, peppercorns, and bay leaves in a coffee or spice grinder. Set aside.

    FOR THE PATE: Cut the rabbit into 1-inch cubes. (You should have about 1 1/2 cups.) Place in a medium bowl. Clean any fat, sinew, or dark spots from the livers. Add to the rabbit, then add the ground spices and toss well, being sure to coat the rabbit and livers evenly. Cover and refrigerate for at least 2 hours, or up to 6 hours.

    About 30 minutes before grinding the meat, remove the crusts from the bread and tear the bread into pieces no more than an inch across. Place in a medium bowl, add the milk, and set aside to soak.

    Brush a 2 1/2-by-4 1/2-by-3-inch-high lidded terrine (see Sources, page 330) with a light coating of oil. Line the terrine with plastic wrap, leaving about a 6-inch overhang on all four sides. Arrange the 5 bay leaves in a line down the bottom of the terrine (this will be the presentation side of the terrine). Line the terrine with the bacon slices, beginning with one end of a bacon slice just slightly past center and the opposite end overhanging the side of the terrine. Continue working around the terrine, overlapping the slices by 1/8 inch; they shouldn't overlap by much more or the bacon will be too thick. The ends of the bacon that overlap in the center of the terrine should overlap by about 1/4 inch. If necessary, use scissors to trim the bacon so that the overhang is 3 inches. Place the terrine in a deep roasting pan that is at least three-quarrers of the height of the terrine. Preheat the oven to 300F.

    Fit a meat grinder with a large-holed die. (Be sure that it is bolted securely.) Place a stainless steel bowl set in a bowl of ice under the grinder to catch the ground mixture. First grind the marinated meat mixture, then grind the bread and milk mixture into the bowl. Mix the meat and bread together and transfer to another bowl. Return the first bowl to the ice. Change the grinder die to the smaller one and grind the mixture a second time. Then run the fatback through the grinder into the bowl. To clean any mixture trapped in the grinder, cut a piece of plastic wrap 3 to 4 inches square and run it into the machine. Once it pushes out any remaining mixture, stop the grinder. (You can remove the plastic wrap when you clean the machine.)

    Mix the egg yolks and cognac together in a small bowl, then stir into the pate with a rubber spatula, making certain the the fat is evenly distributed throughout.

    Pack the mixture into the terrine, being careful to avoid air pockets, especially in the corners. Fold the bacon over the terrine, beginning at the two short ends. Then use one side of the plastic wrap to lift one long side of the strips of bacon over to the center. Lift up the plastic wrap and repeat with the second side, then, over the top with the plastic wrap and the lid. Place the terrine in a roasting pan.

    Add enough warm water to the roasting pan to come about two-thirds of the way up the sides of the terrine. Place in the oven and bake for 1 hour and 45 minutes to 2 hours, or until the center of the terrine registers 160°F on an instant-read thermometer. (The lid of most terrines has a hole through which you can place a thermometer.) Remove the roasting pan from the oven and then the terrine from the pan; place on a cooling rack set over a small baking sheet (to catch the fat later). Let stand at room temperature for about 20 minutes.

    Cut a piece of cardboard to fit over the surface of the pate and wrap the cardboard in aluminum foil. Puncture the plastic wrap at each end of the terrine and tilt the terrine at each end to drain any fat. Place the cardboard on the terrine and top with several heavy weights, such as clean bricks. (If the weights are resting on the sides of the terrine, add an additional layer or more of cardboard so the weights are sitting on the cardboard, not on the rim of the terrine, so they can compress the pate.) Refrigerate the weighted pate for 24 hours.

    TO SERVE: Remove the weights and cardboard from the terrine. Lift up the pate with the overhang of plastic wrap to release it from the mold, then replace it in the terrine. (If the pate doesn't release, fill the sink or other large container with warm water and dip the terrine in just long enough to soften the fat and release the pate.) Carefully run a knife around the edges of the pate and invert it onto a cutting board. Cut into 1/2-inch-thick slices.

    Serve with a pot of Dijon mustard, cornichons, radishes, fleur de sel, and ground pepper.

    Grilled Delights

    We had a good crowd around Saturday night. The weather was gorgeous and we got the grill going for each of the three courses. All are Bobby Flay recipes. All were delicious. I have to say, the steak was the highlight for me. It was perfectly cooked and the beef of high quality. One diner remarked that getting into our house for dinner carries with it some level of exclusivity. He said, "It's like if you don't get in when you're invited, you won't get another reservation here for months." Here's everything we made:

    Appetizers:
    -Guacamole
    -Ancho-Red Pepper Sauce

    Starter:
    -Grilled Squid and Sweet Onion Salad with Green Chile Vinaigrette
    -Red Chile Oil
    -Cilantro Oil

    Main Course:
    -Black Pepper-Ancho-Crusted Strip Steaks with Hot-and-Sweet Mint Glaze
    -Maple-Glazed Grilled Sweet Potatoes

    Dessert:
    -Grilled Pineapple with Butter-Rum Glaze and Vanilla Mascarpone

    Guacamole
    5 ripe Hass avocados, halved, pitted, peeled, and diced
    ½ small red onion, finely chopped
    1 serrano chile, seeded and minced
    ¼ cup chopped fresh cilantro leaves
    Juice of 1 lime
    2 tablespoons mild vegetable oil, such as canola
    Salt and freshly ground black pepper

    Combine all the ingredients in a medium bowl and season to taste with salt and pepper. (The guacamole can be made a few hours in advance, covered, and kept refrigerated.)

    Ancho-Red Pepper Sauce
    5 tablespoons canola oil
    1 cup red onion, coarsely chopped
    3 garlic, coarsely chopped
    2 cans plum tomato
    3 red bell pepper, roasted, peeled, seeded and coarsely chopped
    3 ancho chiles, blistered, soaked, seeded and coarsely chopped
    1 tablespoon red wine vinegar
    1 tablespoon honey
    ¼ cup cilantro, finely chopped

    First prepare the peppers and the chilies. Preheat the broiler to high and get a small saucepan of water boiling. Do the chilies first, tearing them into flat pieces, discarding the seeds and the membranes inside. In a medium sized skillet over high heat, put the chilies in the skillet (in batches if necessary) and allow the skins to blister and change color. When they are all finished, cover them with the boiling water and put something over the top of them to weight them down. Let them soak for 20-30 minutes.

    For the peppers, lay some foil out on a baking tray and drizzle some olive oil on it. I like to slice the peppers into flat pieces first before roasting, so that I can lay them all flat and not have to deal with turning them in the oven. Lay the pepper pieces out on the tray and move them around to coat them in the oil. Sprinkle with salt and pepper and place under the broiler (4-6 inches away from the heat source) and roast until the peppers have a fair amount of blackness on the skins, about 12-16 minutes.

    Leaving the broiler on, pull the peppers out and, using a paring knife, work to separate the blackened skins from the peppers. Discard the charred skins and roughly chop the peppers. Strain the ancho chilies (when ready) and roughly chop. Now these are ready for inclusion in the sauce.

    Heat 2 tablespoons of the canola oil in a medium saucepan over high heat. Add the onion and cook until soft, 3 to 4 minutes. Add the garlic and cook for 1 minute. Add the tomatoes, red peppers, and anchos, and cook until the tomatoes break down and liquid thickens, 20 to 30 minutes.

    Carefully transfer the mixture to a food processor (or blender) and process until smooth. Add the vinegar, honey and chopped cilantro. Season with salt and pepper and pulse a few times just to combine it all.
    Grilled Squid and Sweet Onion Salad with Green Chile Vinaigrette
    4 plum tomatoes, halved
    ¼ cup olive oil, plus 2 T
    Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
    2 sweet onions, such as Vidalia or Walla Walla, sliced 1/4 inch thick
    1 lb. medium squid, including tentacles, cleaned
    4 ounces arugula
    4 ounces frisee, torn into bite-sized pieces
    GREEN CHILE VINAIGRETTE (see below)
    chives, chopped, for garnish

    Preheat the oven to 350 degrees F.

    Rub the tomatoes with the 2 tablespoons olive oil, season with salt and pepper, and place, cut side up, on a baking sheet. Roast for 25 to 35 minutes, until soft. Remove from the oven. When cool enough to handle, seed and dice the tomatoes.

    Preheat a grill to high or a grill pan over high heat.

    Brush the onions and squid with the 1/4 cup olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Grill the onions for 3 to 4 minutes per side, until slightly charred and just cooked through. Remove from the grill and coarsely chop.

    Grill the squid on each side for 2 to 3 minutes, until just cooked through. Cut crosswise into 1-inch pieces.

    Combine the onions, squid, arugula, and frisee in a large serving bowl. Toss with some of the green chile vinaigrette. Transfer to a platter and top with the roasted tomatoes and chives and drizzle with the remaining vinaigrette.

    Green Chile Vinaigrette
    2 poblano chiles, roasted, peeled, seeded, and chopped
    4 cloves roasted garlic, peeled
    3 tablespoons red wine vinegar
    3 tablespoons lime juice
    1 tablespoon honey
    kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
    ¼ cup canola oil
    ¼ cup cilantro, chopped

    Combine the poblanos, garlic, vinegar, lime juice, 1/4 cup of water, and honey in a blender, season with salt and pepper, and blend until smooth. With the motor running, slowly add the oil and blend until emulsified. Add the cilantro and blend for 5 seconds more. There should be flecks of the cilantro in the vinaigrette. This can be made up to 8 hours in advance and refrigerated.

    Red Chile Oil
    5 guajillo chiles, toasted and seeded
    1 cup canola oil
    ½ teaspoon kosher salt

    Combine the guajillos, oil, and salt in a blender and blend for 5 minutes. Strain into a bowl. This can be made up to 1 day in advance and refrigerated.

    Cilantro Oil
    1 ½ cups canola oil
    1 cup packed fresh cilantro leaves, stems included
    10 fresh spinach leaves
    ½ teaspoon kosher salt

    Combine the oil, cilantro, spinach, and salt in a blender and blend for 5 minutes. Strain through a fine-mesh strainer (don't press on he solids, or the oil will get cloudy) into a bowl. This can be made up to 2 days in advance and refrigerated. Bring to room temperature before serving.
    Black Pepper-Ancho-Crusted Strip Steaks with Hot-and-Sweet Mint Glaze
    FOR THE GLAZE:
    6 tablespoons Dijon mustard
    ¼ cup honey
    2 tablespoons prepared horseradish, drained
    6 fresh mint leaves, finely chopped
    Salt and freshly ground black pepper

    FOR THE FILETS:
    2 tablespoons coarsely ground black pepper
    1 tablespoon ancho chile powder
    1 tablespoon salt
    4x8 ounce strip steaks
    2 tablespoons mild vegetable oil, such as canola

    GLAZE
    Whisk together the mustard, honey, horseradish, and mint in a small bowl and season with salt and pepper to taste. Set aside at room temperature. (The glaze can be made a few days in advance, covered, and kept refrigerated. Bring to room temperature before using.)

    FILETS
    Heat your grill to high.

    Combine the pepper, ancho powder, and salt in a small bowl. Rub each filet on one side with the spice mixture and drizzle with the oil. Set aside a few tablespoons of glaze to brush on the cooked filets.

    Grill the filets spiced side down until the bottom is lightly charred and crusty, about 4 minutes. Turn the filets over, reduce the heat to medium or move to a cooler part of the grill, and brush the top with the glaze. Grill, brushing often with the glaze, until medium-rare, about 4 minutes more.

    Remove the filets to a cutting board and brush with the reserved glaze. Let rest 5 minutes before serving.

    Maple-Glazed Grilled Sweet Potatoes

    4 large sweet potatoes (do not peel)
    ¾ cup maple syrup
    1 tablespoon ancho chile powder
    Salt
    ¼ cup mild vegetable oil, such as canola

    Place the potatoes in a large pot and cover with cold water. Bring to a boil over high heat, then reduce the heat and simmer the potatoes until soft but not mushy (you should still feel resistance when you stick a small knife through the center), 25 to 35 minutes.

    Have ready a bowl of cold water. Drain the potatoes, put them in the cold water, and set aside until cool enough to handle. Peel the potatoes and quarter each one lengthwise.(The potatoes can be cooked a few hours in advance, covered, and set aside at room temperature. Don't cut them until you're ready to grill.)

    Heat your grill to high.

    Whisk together the maple syrup, ancho powder, and salt to taste in a small bowl. Brush the potatoes with oil. Grill until golden, about 3 minutes. Brush with the maple glaze and continue grilling, brushing often with the glaze, until the potatoes are glazed, lightly charred, and heated through, about 3 minutes more.
    Grilled Pineapple with Butter-Rum Glaze and Vanilla Mascarpone
    1 cup dark rum
    12 tablespoons unsalted butter
    ¼ cup light brown sugar
    1 vanilla bean
    8 ounces mascazpone
    1 ripe pineapple, peeled and sliced into 1/2-inch-thick rounds
    ½ cup fresh blueberries

    Combine the rum, butter, and sugar in a small saucepan and simmer, whisking often, until the sugar has melted and the mixture is slightly thickened, about 10 minutes. (The glaze can be made a few days in advance, cooled, covered, and kept refrigerated. Bring to room temperature before using.)

    Cut the vanilla bean lengthwise in half and scrape out the seeds with the tip of a sharp knife. Whisk the mascarpone and vanilla seeds together. (The mascarpone can be made a day in advance, covered, and kept refrigerated.)

    Heat your grill to high.

    Grill the pineapple slices, brushing frequently with the glaze, until browned, 2 to 3 minutes per side.

    Remove the pineapple to a platter or serving plates and top each slice with a dollop of vanilla mascarpone. Garnish with a few fresh blueberries. Serve immediately.