Saturday 14 June 2008

Eat Like a Parisian!


Guests of this blog know that I like a good cookbook. Thomas Keller, widely regarded as the best chef in the United States, has a few books out and they really deliver. No recipe delivers like this one (from the cookbook Bouchon - which I have a link to on the right side of this page) and it is the simplest thing in the world to make.

A lot of people ask me what I would have as a last meal. This is probably it. Nothing in my mind beats the simplicity and reward of a perfectly roasted chicken. I mean, the smell of the kitchen as it is cooking all the way up to the eating is sheer anticipation. And, as I said, the preparation is ridiculously simple.

We usually just eat the chicken as is, but this time we decided to throw a little sauce on it and see what happened. We weren't disappointed. That said, it is PERFECTLY ACCEPTABLE to just have the chicken. It doesn't NEED a sauce. You can do one if you want.

The side dish is another one we have every now and again, but this time we made it with ingredients from our organic box. We left the red peppers raw (the recipe calls for them to be roasted) and the crunch and flavor of the red pepper was astounding. I have never said that about a raw red pepper before, but a really good quality pepper elevated the dish quite a lot. Anyhow, this was a fantastic, simple meal that delivers SO MUCH. EAT IT NOW.

Final Note: Get a meat thermometer. If you want consistent results, you need to exercise control over the meat. If you overcook meat (e.g., cook it too long), it turns out dry and crappy. Getting your meat out of the oven before this point is ESSENTIAL. For instance, I have a fan-assisted oven (which I hate) that causes me to guess about timing. The only way I know for sure is to check the meat temp every once in a while. This recipe calls for 50-60 minutes, but my oven gets it done in about 35-40. Another checkpoint is to pierce the under side of the thigh and watch the juices come out. If the juices run clear, it's ready. Any pink in the juice, and it needs more cooking. Thermometers are cheap and will help you to produce consistent results.

Main: Roast Chicken with Mushroom Tarragon Sauce

1.5 kg chicken
salt and pepper
2 teaspoons thyme, minced
butter, optional

The Sauce:
30 g butter
olive oil
100 g mushrooms, sliced thinly
2 shallot, finely chopped
2 tablespoons Cognac
3 tablespoons white wine
50 milliliters heavy cream
salt and pepper
1 tablespoon tarragon, chopped

Preheat the 450F. Rinse the chicken, then dry it very well with paper towels, inside and out. The less it steams, the drier the heat, the better.

Salt and pepper the cavity, then truss the bird. Trussing is not difficult, and if you roast chicken often, it's a good technique to feel comfortable with. When you truss a bird, the wings and legs stay close to the body; the ends of the drumsticks cover the top of the breast and keep it from drying it out. Trussing helps the chicken to cook evenly, and it also makes for a more beautiful roasted bird.

Now salt the chicken - I like to rain salt over the bird so that it has a nice uniform coating that will result in a crisp flavorful skin (about one tablespoon). When it's cooked, you should still be able to make out the salt baked into the crisp skin. Season to taste with pepper.

Place the chicken in a roasting pan (with a rack of you have one) and, when the oven is up to temperature, put the chicken in the oven. I leave it alone - I don't baste it, I don't add butter; you can if you wish but I feel this creates steam, which I don't want. Roast it until it's done, 50 to 60 minutes (or until the internal temperature taken at the thickest part of the thigh registers about 70C/158F). Remove the chicken from the from the oven and add the thyme to the pan. Baste the chicken with the juices and thyme and let it rest for 15 minutes on a cutting board.

While the chicken is resting, make the sauce. (NOTE: This chicken is AWESOME without any sauce. Consider any sauce for this chicken to be optional.) Heat a saute pan over medium heat. Add the butter and a drizzle of olive oil. When the butter has melted, add the mushrooms and let them cook down for about 5 minutes. When almost all of the liquid has ben absorbed, add the shallots and stir through and cook for another minutes or so. Add the wine and Cognac and deglaze the pan, scraping up any bits clinging to the bottom of the pan. Let this liquid reduce by half then add the cream and season with salt and pepper (and another little hunk of butter, if desired) and let it come to a simmer. Add the tarragon and stir to combine. Check the seasoning and remove from the heat and put into a bowl or gravy boat. Set aside.

Remove the twine from the chicken. Separate the wing joint and eat that immediately. Remove the legs and thighs. I like to take off the backbone and eat one of the oysters, the two succulent morsels of meat embedded here, and give the other to the person I'm cooking with. Cut the breast down the middle and serve it on the bone with one wing joint still attached to each. The preparation is not meant to be superelegant. Slather the meat with fresh butter (if not using the sauce). Serve hot. Eat with your fingers.

Side: Parisian-Style Potato Salad

1.5 lb. new potatoes, red, if possible
3 tablespoons sherry vinegar
¼ teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon pepper
3 tablespoons red bell pepper, roasted, finely chopped
2 tablespoons parsley, minced
1 tablespoon olive oil, extra-virgin
8 kalamata olives, pitted and chopped
4 anchovy fillets, finely chopped
2 garlic, minced
parsley, to garnish (optional)
anchovy fillets, whole (optional)

Place potatoes in a large saucepan, and cover with water; bring to a boil. Reduce heat, and simmer 15 minutes or until tender; drain and cool slightly. Cut potatoes into 1/4-inch-thick slices. Combine potatoes, 2 tablespoons vinegar, salt, and pepper; toss gently. Let stand 5 minutes.

Combine 1 tablespoon vinegar, bell peppers, and remaining ingredients except parsley sprigs and whole anchovy fillets in a bowl; stir with a whisk. Pour over potatoes; toss gently to coat. Garnish with parsley sprigs and whole anchovy fillets, if desired. Serve at room temperature.

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