The miso soup and the ice cream turned out pretty well. There are some things I'd like to try differently next time with the fish dish. Either way, they were tasty and represent REAL Japanese cuisine. That alone makes it worth the effort.
Starter: Miso Soup with Enoki Mushrooms
First make the stock (you will need some of this for the main dish, too, so make a double batch)
15-20 square inches kombu (page 42)
4 ¼ cups cold water, preferably filtered or spring water
½ cup loosely packed katsuo-bushi (page 18)
Place the kombu in a pot with the water. To draw out maximum flavor, let soak for 10 to 15 minutes before placing the pot over medium heat-this will further infuse the water with the
flavor-enhancing properties and nutrients of the kelp.
Remove the pot from the heat as soon as small bubbles begin to break on the surface and at the edge of the pot. Add the katsuo-bushi, scattering the flakes across the surface of the
water. After several minutes, the fish flakes will begin to sink. The larger the flakes, the longer they will take to sink.
To keep the stock from tasting fishy, pour it through a sarashi cloth (page 77) or coffee-filter-lined strainer within 3 or 4 minutes of adding the fish flakes. Reserve the kombu (see notes) and discard the remaining solids.
The Soup
1 package enoki mushrooms, about 3 ounces, trimmed
4 mitsuba stalks (page 26), 2 watercress sprigs, or 2 scallions
3 ½ cups Basic Sea Stock (page 92)
½ block firm tofu, drained and pressed (page 77), then cut into a '/4-inch dice
3 tablespoons miso
Cut the trimmed mushrooms into thirds. Place the pieces with the caps directly into individual soup bowls and the remaining stem portions into a pot.
Trim the mitsuba or watercress, removing roots and tough stems, then chop the leaves and tender stems coarsely. If using scallions, trim away the root and cut both the white bottoms
and the green tops into thin circular slices. Divide the garnish among the bowls.
Add the stock to the pot holding the mushroom stems and bring to a boil over high heat. When the stock begins to boil. skim away any froth and reduce the heat to maintain a steady
but not vigorous simmer. Add the tofu and cook for 1 minute.
Just before serving, place the miso in a miso koshi (page 77) and stir directly into the soup. Or place the miso in a bowl, ladle in some of the hot stock from the pot, stir to mix it, and
add to the pot.
Ladle the soup into the bowls holding the enoki caps and garnish, dividing it evenly, and serve immediately.
Main: Cloud-Steamed Bass
CLOUD TOPPING
2-inch chunk daikon or rutabaga, about 4 ounces
1 small potato, preferably red- or white-skinned new potato, or small piece lotus root, about 2 ounces
½ egg white from large egg
Pinch of salt
4 slices sea bass fillet, with skin intact, or bass steaks
4 dried bamboo leaves (optional)
4 pieces kombu (page 42), preferably Rausu kombu, Rishiri kombu, or rna kombu, each the same dimension as a single portion of fish
SAUCE
⅓ cup Basic Sea Stock (page 92)
1 teaspoon light-colored soy sauce
2 teaspoons sake
1 teaspoon mirin
½ teaspoon cornstarch mixed with 1/2 teaspoon water to make a thin paste
1 teaspoon wasabi paste
To make the cloud topping, peel and grate the daikon and potato, combine them, and then drain off excess moisture as directed for daikon on page 59. You should have about 1/2 cup.
In a bowl, combine the egg white and salt and beat with a whisk or several pairs of chopsticks until soft peaks form. Add the grated vegetable and fold in gently but thoroughly.
Ideally, the bass pieces are wrapped in bamboo leaves, but you can use cooking parchment if you don't have the leaves. I do not recommend the use of aluminum foil, because it often
imparts a metallic aftertaste.
If using dried bamboo leaves, lay the leaves speckled side down and shiny side up on a flat work surface and clean as directed on page 84. Place a piece of kombu, aligning it horizontally, at the center of each leaf to prevent the fish from sticking to it and to lend a pleasant seashore aroma to the finished dish. Put a piece of fish, skin side down if using fillet, on each piece of kombu. Top each piece of fish with one-fourth of the cloud mixture. Starting at the broad end, fold the bamboo leaf loosely over the cloud mixture. Then fold over the narrower, slightly triangular end, to enclose the fish loosely. Pinch the sides of each packet and tuck in the edges a bit to ensure the fish is protected. Secure each bundle with its own self-tie (a thin strip of dried bamboo) or with kitchen string if necessary, taking care not to mash the cloud mixture.
If using cooking parchment, cut 4 pieces each about 8 inches square and place on a flat work surface. Place a piece of kombu, aligning it horizontally, at the center of each piece of
parchment to prevent the fish from sticking to it and to lend a pleasant seashore aroma to the finished dish. Put a piece of fish, skin side down, on each piece of kombu. Top each piece
with one-fourth of the cloud mixture, Bring the top and bottom edges of the parchment paper up to meet loosely over the cloud mixture and then fold over together several times to
secure shut. Close the right and left sides of the paper by folding them down loosely and turning them under the packet. Secure each packet with kitchen string, taking care not to
mash the cloud mixture.
Bring the water in the bottom of a steamer to a boil. Adjust the heat to maintain a steady but gentle flow of steam and place the packets on the steamer rack. Cover and steam the fish for 5 minutes, Remove the steamer from the stove, Carefully remove the lid, lifting it away from you to avoid being burned by the steam, To test for doneness, gently press or pinch the sides of the fish at the bottom of each packet with tongs or long cooking chopsticks. The fish should feel fairly firm. If it does not, replace the lid, move the steamer back onto the stove, and steam for another minute.
Remove the steamer from the stove and allow the fish to self-steam (murasu) for another 2 minutes. While the fish is self-steaming, heat shallow serving bowls in the steamer or a preheated oven set to 200F and make the sauce. In a small saucepan, combine the stock, soy sauce, sake, and mirin over high heat until bubbles appear at the edge of the pan, Add the cornstarch mixture and stir until thickened.
Open the packets of fish, Some liquid will have been trapped in the packets; carefully drain. Using a broad spatula, carefully transfer each portion, kelp side down, to a warmed bowl. Spoon some of the thickened sauce over the cloud topping and around the fish, Garnish the top of each portion with a small dab of wasabi. Diners dissolve the wasabi in the surrounding sauce as they eat.
Serve piping hot, The kelp may be eaten along with the fish, although it will be a bit chewy.
Dessert: Green Tea Ice Cream
⅓ cup sugar
⅓ cup cold water
½ teaspoon mirin
2 teaspoons matcha (page 54)
½ cup whole milk
½ cup half-and-half
In a small saucepan, combine the sugar and water. Stir the mixture over low heat to melt the sugar and then continue to simmer for about 5 minutes, or until a bit syrupy. Add the
mirin, stir, and remove the pan from the heat.
In a small bowl, combine 1 tablespoon of the warm syrup and the matcha and stir until dissolved. Return this sweet tea concentrate to the saucepan and stir until completely blended. To retain optimal aroma and ensure an intense jade color, do not reheat the mixture. Stir in the milk and half-and-half and mix thoroughly.
If you are using an ice-cream maker, pour the tea and milk mixture into the machine and follow the manufacturer's instructions for making a soft-set ice cream. For most models, about 10 minutes of chilling and churning should suffice. Pour the semifrozen mixture into a 3-cup freezer-safe container with a snug-fitting lid. Tap the container gently on a countertop to force out any air bubbles that might be trapped below the surface. Cover and freeze for at least 2 hours, or until firm throughout.
If you are using a blender, electric mixer, or whisk and freezer trays, pour the tea-and-milk mixture into a flat, shallow freezer-safe container, filling it no more than two-thirds full (the mixture will expand). Tap the container gently on a countertop to force out any air bubbles that might be trapped below the surface. Cover and freeze for 1 1/2, hours, or until nearly firm. Transfer the semifrozen mixture to a blender and pulse in a few short spurts. Or, with a handheld electric mixer or a whisk, whip the mixture vigorously in a deep bowl. Return the mixture to the same container, re-cover, and freeze again for another 45 minutes, or until firm (but not rock-hard) throughout. Repeat the blend or whip step one more time to
achieve a silkier texture.
The final ice cream should be smooth but not too hard. When ready to serve, transfer one or two scoops to pre-chilled bowls. The jade color of the ice cream makes for a dramatic presentation against black tableware.
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