Temple Garden Chowder (Unpen-Jiru)

This is a nice, clean, wintry soup which comes from a really good book on Japanese home cooking called 'Washoku' by Elizabeth Andoh. There are four variations of this particular soup, one for each of the seasons. This is the winter offering.

Even though there are a few components to deal with here, it's pretty quick to throw together. The result is very clean tasting and minimalist, but flavorful and comforting, which is what I like about a lot of Japanese cooking.

Basic Sea Stock (Dashi)

15-20 square inches kombu (page 42)
4 ¼ cups cold water, preferably filtered or spring water
½ cup loosely packed katsuo-bushi (page 18)

Place the kombu in a pot with the water. To draw out maximum flavor, let soak for 10 to 15 minutes before placing the pot over medium heat-this will further infuse the water with the flavor-enhancing properties and nutrients of the kelp.

Remove the pot from the heat as soon as small bubbles begin to break on the surface and at the edge of the pot. Add the katsuo-bushi, scattering the flakes across the surface of the water. After several minutes, the fish flakes will begin to sink. The larger the flakes, the longer they will take to sink.

To keep the stock from tasting fishy, pour it through a sarashi cloth (page 77) or coffee-filter-lined strainer within 3 or 4 minutes of adding the fish flakes. Reserve the kombu (see notes) and discard the remaining solids.

YEAR-ROUND BASIC SOUP
2" piece daikon, about 4 ounces
1 carrot chunk, about 2 ounces
3 ½ cups BASIC SEA STOCK or BASIC VEGETARIAN STOCK
½ teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon sake

To make the year-round soup, scrub the daikon and carrot, but do not peel, to preserve the integrity of the vegetables. Cut the daikon into 5 or 6 circular slices, stack the slices, and cut the stack into 6 or 8 wedges. If the carrot is slender, slice it into thin rounds. If the carrot is more than 1 inch in diameter, slice it in half lengthwise, place the halves cut side down on a cutting board, and slice on the diagonal into thin, elongated half-moons about 1 inch long. Set the vegetables aside.

Pour the stock into a sturdy 2-quart pot and bring to a rolling boil over high heat. Adjust the heat to maintain a steady but not vigorous simmer. Season with the salt and sake and then add the daikon and carrot. Simmer for 2 minutes, or until the vegetables are barely tender. Skim away any froth that appears. Remove the pot from the heat while you prepare the vegetables for the seasonal soup you are making.

IN THE WINTER
1 small leek, preferably Japanese leek, about 3 ounces
1 small parsnip, about 4 ounces
1 teaspoon sesame oil
2-inch piece broccoli stalk, about 1 ounce, cut into julienne
⅓ cup BASIC SEA STOCK or BASIC VEGETARIAN STOCK
1 ½ teaspoons light-colored soy sauce
1 ½ teaspoons mirin
2 tablespoons cornstarch mixed with 1 tablespoon cold water to make a paste

To make the winter soup, trim the leek and cut the white portion on the diagonal into 1/3-inch-thick slices (save the green tops and trimmings for enriching stock). Place the leek slices in a strainer and rinse carefully to remove any sandy soil that might be hidden between the layers.

Scrub the parsnip with the rough side of a kitchen sponge, or scrape with the back of your knife to make sure it is free of dirt and other gritty material. The peel, however, is nutritious and tasty and should not be removed. Slice the parsnip in half lengthwise. Place the halves cut side down on a cutting board and slice on the diagonal into thin, elongated half-moons about 3/4-inch long.

Add the sesame oil to a nonstick skillet and place over medium-high heat. When the oil is hot, add the leek and parsnip and stir-fry for 1 minute, or until fragrant and slightly wilted. Add the broccoli and stir-fry for another 30 or 40 seconds, or until slightly translucent. Blot up any excess oil with paper towels.

Add the stock, soy sauce, and mirin, and bring to a simmer for 30 to 40 seconds to allow the flavors to meld. Skim away any froth that appears. Transfer the leek, parsnip, and broccoli with the broth to the pot with the daikon, carrot, and stock.

Raise the heat to high and stir in the cornstarch paste. Continue to stir for about 45 seconds, or until the broth thickens. Ladle the soup into individual bowls and serve immediately.