Lasagne alla Bolognese al Forno

Sometimes, if you want a truly great product, you have to put in a little overtime. Maybe that thing you want to eat really has a few components to it. Sometimes, every part of something has to be made from scratch if you really want to revel in the glory of some magnificent food. The kind of food where you sit back at the end of it, pat your belly and say to your silent, sated guests, "And THAT is my world-famous, made-from-scratch lasagna."

This recipe comes from chef Mario Batali, who most Americans know as a household name. Apparently, he beat up some old grandmother in Italy to give him this recipe. Subjected her to medieval tortures until she gave up the goods. She was old, but I am told she put up quite a fight for a 96-year-old. The result is mind-blowingly great and will have you pontificating about the meaning of the universe and your place in it when you are finished eating it.

Yes, sometimes the road to perfection is long and riddled with obstacles. This one has just a few. And it starts with some fresh pasta.

NOTE: Use fresh ingredients only. Buy the best meat you can afford. Buy the best Parmigiano-Reggiano you can find. Do NOT use anything pre-shredded, in a green can, or anything within 20 feet of a Kraft product in the supermarket.

Basic Pasta Dough (Pasta Sfoglia)

3 ½ cups flour
5 large eggs

Mound the flour in the center of a large wooden board. Make a well in the center of the flour and add the eggs. Using a fork, beat the eggs together and then begin to incorporate the flour, starting with the inner rim of the well. As you expand the well, keep pushing the flour up to retain the well shape (do not worry if it looks messy). When half of the flour is incorporated, the dough will begin to come together. Start kneading the dough, using primarily the palms of your hands. Once the dough is a cohesive mass, set the dough aside
and scrape up and discard any dried bits of dough.

Lightly flour the board and continue kneading for 10 minutes, dusting the board with additional flour as necessary. The dough should be elastic and a little sticky. Wrap the dough in plastic wrap and allow to rest for 30 minutes at room temperature before using.

Ragu Bolognese

¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil
2 medium onion, finely chopped
4 stalks celery, finely chopped
2 carrot, finely chopped
5 cloves garlic, sliced
1 pound ground veal
1 pound ground pork
4 ounces pancetta or slab bacon, medium grind
6 ounces tomato paste
1 cup whole milk
1 cup dry white wine
1 teaspoon thyme
salt and black pepper

In a 6- to 8-quart heavy-bottomed pot, heat the olive oil over medium heat until hot. Add the onions, celery, carrots and garlic and cook until the vegetables are translucent but not browned, about 5 minutes. Add the pork, and pancetta, increase the heat to high, and the meat, stirring frequently. Add the tomato paste, wine, and thyme and bring just to a boil, then reduce heat to medium-low and simmer for 1 to 1 1/2 hours.

Season the ragu with salt and pepper, remove from the heat and let cool. (The ragu can be refrigerated for up to 2 days; it can also be frozen for up to 1 month.)

Bechamel Sauce (Besciamella)

5 tablespoons unsalted butter
¼ cup flour
3 cups whole milk
2 teaspoons salt
½ teaspoon nutmeg

In a medium saucepan, melt the butter over medium heat. Add the flour and stir until smooth. Cook, stirring, until light golden brown, 6 to 7 minutes.

Meanwhile, in another medium saucepan, heat the milk to just under a boil. Add the milk to the butter mixture about 1 cup at a time, whisking constantly until very smooth, and bring to a boil, whisking. Cook, whisking, until thickened, about 10 minutes; remove from the heat. Season with the salt and nutmeg. Transfer to a bowl and let cool, then cover and refrigerate until ready to use.

Now, you are ready to make lasagna.

Lasagne (Lasagne alla Bolognese al Forno)

2 ½ pounds PASTA DOUGH (shown above)
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
RAGU BOLOGNESE (shown above)
8 ounces Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, grated
3 ½ cups BESCIAMELLA (shown above)

Divide the pasta dough into 8 portions. Roll each one out through the thinnest setting on a pasta machine and lay the sheets on a lightly floured surface to dry for 10 minutes. Cut the pasta into 5-inch squares and cover with a damp kitchen towel.

Bring 6 quarts of water to a boil in a large pot, and add 2 tablespoons salt. Set up an ice bath next to the stovetop, and add the oil. Drop the pasta into the boiling water 6 or 7 pieces at a time, and cook until tender, about 1 minute. Transfer to the ice bath to cool, then drain on kitchen towels, laying the pasta flat.

Preheat the oven to 375°F.

Assemble the lasagne in a 10-by-20-inch lasagne pan (or use two 9-by-12-inch pans): Spread a layer of ragu over the bottom and with a sprinkling of Parmigiano, a layer of pasta, a layer of besciamelia, another layer of ragu, a sprinkling of Parmigiano, and pasta. Repeat until all the ingredients are used up, finishing with a layer of pasta topped with besciamella and a sprinkling of Parmigiano.

Bake for 45 minutes, or until the edges are browned and the sauces are bubbling. Let stand for 10 minutes before serving.