Well, we've reached the end. I can't say the tart turned out quite like I wanted it to (the caramel started to burn on the stove) but the flavors were just fine at the end. Make the ice cream base the day before and chill overnight in the fridge and churn it the next day for the best texture.
Apple Ice Cream with Calvados
2 medium Granny Smith apple
¾ cup sugar
1 cup water
1 quart creme fraiche
6 egg yolk
1 tablespoon Calvados
Peel and core the apples and cut into 1/2-inch dice. (You should have 2 to 2 1/2 cups of apples) Combine 1 cup of the sugar and the water in a medium saucepan and bring to a boil, stirring to dissolve the sugar. Add the apples, reduce the heat to a simmer, and cook, stirring occasionally, for about 30 minutes, or until the apples are translucent. With a slotted spoon, transfer the apples to a bowl. (You can use the syrup to make apple-flavored drinks, if you like)
Place a metal bowl that will hold the finished custard over an ice bath.
Combine the creme fraiche and 6 tablespoons of the sugar in a large nonreactive saucepan and bring to a simmer, stirring to dissolve the sugar.
Meanwhile, whisk the yolks with the remaining 6 tablespoons sugar in a medium bowl until the mixture thickens and lightens in color. Whisking constantly, gradually pour about one-third of the hot mixture into the yolks to temper them. Return the mixture to the saucepan and cook over low heat, stirring constantly with a wooden or heatproof spoon, for about 10 minutes, or until the custard has thickened and coats the back of the spoon. (Run your finger through the custard on the spoon: The line
you make should remain.)
Pour the custard into the metal bowl and stir occasionally until it has cooled.
Strain the cooled custard into a bowl or other container and refrigerate for at least a few hours, or preferably overnight. (Overnight chilling will result in the best flavor and creamiest texture.)
Place a container, preferably metal, that will hold the finished ice cream in the freezer.
Transfer the custard to an ice cream machine and freeze according to the manufacturer's instructions. When the ice cream is the texture of "soft serve" ice cream, mix in the apples and Calvados, then transfer to the metal container and place in the freezer to harden. (The ice cream is best eaten within a day, but it can be made several days ahead.)
TARTE TATIN
PATE BRISEE
2 ¼ cups all purpose flour, sifted
1 teaspoon kosher salt
8 ounces cold unsalted butter, cut into 1/4-inch cubes
¼ cup ice water
APPLES
9-10 Golden Delicious apples
¾ cup sugar
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
FOR THE PATE BRISEE
This recipe makes enough dough for 2 rarts, so you can freeze half for another time. Put 1 cup of the flour and the salt in the bowl of a heavy-dury mixer fitted with the paddle attachment. With the mixer on low speed, add the butter a small handful at a time, then increase the speed to medium and mix until the butter is completely blended with the flour. Stop to scrape down the sides of the bowl as nccessary. Reduce the speed to low, add the remaining 1 cup flour, and mix just to combine. Add the water and mix until incorporated. The dough will come up around the paddle and should feel smooth, nor sticky, to the touch.
Remove the dough from the mixer; check to be certain there are no visible pieces of butler remaining, then return the dough to the mixer and blend briefly if necessary. Divide the dough in half. Pat each piece into a 7 to 8 inch disk and wrap in plastic wrap. Wrap one piece in foil and freeze for up to 1 month. Refrigerate other piece for at least 1 hour, or up to one day. (If the dough does not rest, it will shrink as it bakes.)
FOR THE TART
A traditional tarte Tatin pan is round, 9 1/2 inches across, and 1 1/2 inches deep (see Sources, page 330). If you do not have one, you can use a heavy ovenproof skillet or pan with the same dimensions (the height is crucial, as the sugar will bubble up as it caramelizes).
Roll the dough into a circle that is just slightly larger than the pan and just under 1/4 inch thick. Fold the dough in half and then fold again to form a triangle. Put on a plate and refrigerate until ready to use.
Peel the apples and cut them lengthwise in half. Use a melon baller to remove the seeds and cores and a paring knife to remove any stems. Trim the root and stem ends to create flat surfaces. Spread the sugar in an even layer in the bottom of the pan. Cut the butter into 6 pieces and distribute them over the sugar. Arrange a circle of apples in the pan, standing the apples around the perimeter with all the halves facing the same direction, forming a snug circle. Cur another apple half or two lengthwise in half and stand the pieces in the center of the pan so that they too fit snugly. Reserve any remaining apples to add to the pan as the other apples shrink and make additional room in the tart.
Place the pan over medium to medium-high heat to melt the sugar. As the sugar melts, it will combine with the butter and the juices from the apples and you will see a dramatic increase in the amount of liquid in the pan. As the apples cook, the liquid will bubble up around them. Shake the pan from time to time to loosen the apples so they don't stick to the pan. They should also be rotated in the pan, as a whole unit, to prevent them from sticking. At the beginning of cooking, you will be able to place the palm of your hand on top of the apples and rotate them slightly all at once to be sure that they are not sticking. As the liquid beings to bubble up, it can be easy to burn your hand, so use a small skillet lid or another small flat pan to rotate the apples. When the apples have cooked down enough to create some spaces between them, gently move them apart as necessary and fit in any remaining apple halves.
Be patient as the caramel reduces; it can take up to 1 hour. Because the caramel will not darken once the tart goes into the oven, it must be cooked on the stovetop until it is a very rich, deep amber color (it should be evenly distributed on the bottom of the pan). And if the caramel doesn't reduce enough, you will have too much liquid when the tart is unmolded, which will make the crust soggy. When the caramel is a rich brown color-be careful not to burn it-remove the pan from the heat.
Meanwhile, put a rack in the center of the oven and preheat the oven to 375F.
Remove the dough from the refrigerator, unfold it, and drape it over the apples. If nccessary, use scissors to trim the dough so that it extends just over the edge of the pan. Then tuck in the dough around the apples. Bake for about 40 minutes, or until the dough is golden brown. Remove the tart from the oven and let it sit for about 30 minutes so the apples absorb more of the hot caramel. (Do not let it sit longer than this or the caramel may stick to the pan, causing the apples to fall apart when the tart is unmolded.)
Invert a serving platter (if you plan to reheat the tart, use an ovenproof platter) with a lip over the tart, then carefully invert it onto the platter. Use a paring knife to gently rearrange any apples that may be askew. The tart is best served after it has rested for several hours at room temperature or in the refrigerator. As the tart sits, the apples will absorb even more of the caramel. If the tart has been refrigerated, reheat in a hot oven for a few minutes before serving. Top each slice with a dollop of creme fraiche (or in this case, the ice cream).
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